Gubana is a traditional Italian cake made of yeast dough filled with dried fruits and nuts. It is believed that the cake was invented either in Valla del Natisone or in Cividale by a poor woman who had nothing to sweeten it, so she used what she had – eggs, nuts, honey and flour. Although it was originally prepared for the Christmas and Easter holidays, Gubana is now enjoyed all year round, and the locals recommend soaking the cake in brandy to get the best taste.
As Easter Sunday approaches, rich egg rolls adorn the breakfast and lunch tables to celebrate the end of the Lenten fast. This enchanting snail-shaped cake from Friuli-Venezia Giulia – half brioche, half pastry – is traditionally filled with a crumbly paste of walnuts, raisins, pine nuts, lemon and vanilla. Other additions of dried fruits and liqueurs are what distinguish one gubana from another. It’s a long list of ingredients, but each of them plays its role in creating a rich, intensely flavored cake. The caramelized sugar crust on top and dipping the slice in brandy (as tradition dictates) puts this cake on the list for the whole year, not just for Easter.
Let’s remember from the last post where I wrote about another traditional dish “Strucchi”. Thus, “Gubana” originates from the same area, more precisely from the valley of Cividale and Natisone. Cividale del Friuli, a place under the protection of UNESCO and the neighboring San Pietro al Natisone, are historically important because it is located in the mentioned valleys through which the Alps pass, so great battles were fought there throughout history and various peoples mixed together, including recipes from that era. . There are many others such as “Gubana”.
The Natisone River is a 60-kilometer river whose tributary part originates in Slovenia, part in Italy, and continues its way through Italy. And it was around that river in the fertile valleys that settlements were developed, livestock were raised, fruits and vegetables were planted, and recipes were devised. Cividale del Friuli is the most famous place on that stretch, so that’s where all the tourism is concentrated, although the surrounding area is also worth exploring.
Historical documents also show that gubana was served in the 15th century at a banquet for Pope Gregory XII. when he visited Cividale. Its name probably comes from the Slovenian word ‘guba’ which means ‘folded’ or ‘bent’ which is similar to the Italian word ‘gobbo’ (hunchback). If you’ve been to Venice, you may have also seen Gobbo from the Rialto. Let’s not confuse gubana with Trieste presnica, which is shaped like a horseshoe and consists of lighter pasta. In Croatia, however, Oranjači and Pinci are the most similar.
In Lasiz for forgiveness, married girls still today return to their original families, carrying with them a beautiful gubana that they prepared themselves. In Clenia (San Pietro), for the feast of S. Antonio Abate (January 17), “Gubane” were made in large quantities, cut into slices and offered, as a sign of welcome, to all the strangers who participated in the village feast. In Stermizza (Savogna), children used to knock on the bride’s door singing: “You are invited, we are ready, put something in our baskets, that is your duty!”. The housekeeper gave them Schnitt Gubane.
There are several different customs, from family to family, from village to village, that characterize the close connection of Guban with their area and the population that lives there. Until now, in the Natison valleys, and in the neighboring regions where the valley population has moved, housewives make gubanas for the main local festivities and celebrations. Many historical documents prove that “Gubana” was born in the valleys of Natisone. Already in 1409, “Gubana” appears among the 72 dishes served by the municipality of Cividale in honor of Pope Gregory XII. Mr. Alfeo Mizzau, member of the European Parliament and president of the Societe Filologica Friulana (Ferlan Philological Society), wrote: “”Gubana” is undoubtedly born in the valleys of Natisone, in Slavija Friulani. It is mentioned in the contract from 1576, in which it is prescribed that among the royalties offered to the owners, in addition to rent, there is also “Gubana”. This was valued at a very high price, “una lira di venti soldi”. At that time, twenty “soldi” was equal to one day’s salary of an experienced mason.
Gubana was an exclusively local product until 25 years ago, but today it has become a real industry. Pastries and bakeries started their business as OPG and some specialized only in this product, which is now exported and makes a lot of money.
Mr. Laurencig, an old baker from Savogne, reported in an interview: “For the record, our company only produced bread until 1970. “Gubana” were made only on special occasions and at the request of the family”.
For the feast of the patron saints of San Pietro and San Paolo, in San Pietro al Natisone more than thirty years ago, the 1st “Gubana” competition was held. In this way, “Gubana” came out of the domestic context in which it was made and consumed and began to reach an increasingly wider public, in Italy and abroad, thanks to craft production.
In 1973, the “Consorzio per la tutela della Gubana delle Valli del Natisone” was founded (Consortium for the preservation of the “Gubana” of the Natisone Valley), with the participation of the majority of producers in the following municipalities: San Pietro al Natisone, Pulfero, San Leonardo, Savogna, Grimacco, Drenchia and Stregna. Later, with the establishment of other producers in the Cividale area, another consortium was founded, in 1983, called “Consorzio zona d’origine della Gubana tipica di Cividale – Valli del Natisone” (Consortium of the area of origin typical “Gubana” from Cividale – Natisone Valley) . In order to support the improvement and social and economic development of the Natisone valleys, of which “Gubana” is traditionally one of the truest cultural expressions, in 1990 these two bodies united, giving birth to the “Consorzio per la tutela del marchio Gubana” (Consortium for the Protection of the Sign “Gubana”), the aim of which is, among other things, to obtain the designation of origin “Gubana”.
“Gubana” really, apart from the unquestionable historical and cultural fact, also represents an important item in the economy of the Valley, and it can also become a means of compensating for the demographic impoverishment that continues today, also due to the unfortunate geographical location. The Natisone Valley has a mostly mountainous landscape, with not too high peaks and only a few plateaus suitable for summer grazing. The climate is moderate with a large amount of precipitation, which facilitates the cultivation of the specific fruit needed for “Gubana”. Agriculture is divided into small plots, and tourism needs to be further developed.
Due to the local appearance of the landscape, all industrial initiatives were established in the valley, forcing the population (as of today it has decreased to only 8,000 inhabitants) to become travelers, and after a while to leave forever. And for this reason, the preservation of a few authentically local initiatives is required, among them confectionary companies, whose specialty is, of course, Gubana.
Competition from industrial producers located outside the territory, who use the reputation that Gubana has acquired so far, would be very harmful to both the culture and the economy of the Valley. Therefore, the limit of the typical production area is clearly defined, by which the Italians are known to precisely protect the edge of their products. It is interesting that, unlike Croats, Italians know how to protect their food products and create a fantastic story.
“Please, one Gubana” – opens a complex historically traditional story on the plate and you no longer eat that dessert disinterestedly, but suddenly it acquires a new taste, even if you are not a fan of this type of cake like me – for me it’s all carbohydrates that lead to diabetes . You turn into a real connoisseur who also becomes likable to local residents because you scratched into their history, which is important to them, so in addition to getting sympathy, you will also get a better part of the cake, a sincere smile, and not the rolling of the eyes that they often do because they are fed up non-gourmet tourists of Tumplek.
“Gubana” is also characteristic for its traditional, old-fashioned shape, which is due to being wrapped in the shape of a snail’s house, and for its color. The stretched dough needs to be raised several times, then diagonally circled over the filling and wrapped like a closed snail’s house. This semi-product rises again, until it reaches volume; after that, it is baked in the oven to complete the organoleptic properties. Baking takes about an hour, at a moderate temperature. The second phase of lifting is key to the success of this product. The risen dough must certainly be soft and elastic and must be able to withstand and lift the weight of the filling. The process is a jealously guarded secret shared by women in the Valleys. The ideal weight of Gubana, necessary for a harmony of values and an excellent result, ranges from 850 to 1000 grams.
The best way to try original gubana is at Pasticcceria Gelateria Ducale ( Piazza Alberto Picco , 24 Cividale del Friuli), Panificio del Foro ( Piazza Alberto Picco 20, Cividale del Friuli). By the way, this pastry shop has its own chain, so apart from Cividale del Friuli, they can also be found in Udine – Panificio del Foro Udine ( Via Bartolini 9 ) and in Moimaco – Panificio del Foro Moimaco ( Via Tombe Romane 5 ).
Among the others, there are Gubana EU , located in the same square as Pasticeria Gelateria Ducale (Piazza Alberto Picco 20, Cividale del Friuli), Dorbolò – La Gubana Boutique ( Largo Boiani 10 , Cividale del Friuli). These are bars in the town itself, and at the exit is Vogrig ( Viale Liberta 138 , Cividale del Friuli).
In San Peitro al Natisone, La Gubana della Nonna ( Via Algida 63 ) is famous, and it is interesting that a literally bigger factory was built there, where, among other sweets, the excellent Gubana is produced – La Gubana Martinig SAS di Del Fabro Delis & C. ( Via Zona Industriale, 13 ), Dorbolo Gubane ( Via Alpe Adria 81 ). There are still some in that area, I have singled out some. Also, there are several farms, rural households engaged in agritourism, restaurant offer and accommodation, so you can get stuck in Qualizza Claudio, Agriturismo Monte del Re, Casa Amica and others, and eat specific meals and sleep in addition to food.
Gubana can be the guiding thread of the research of this part of the region. In this way, through food, somehow the most interesting thing for me is to get closer to the local population, understand them, feel the history through some other senses and really have a good time.
Text: Srećko Karić (Google Translation from Croatian)
