VISIT SAN DANIELE DEL FRIULI
From Zagreb to San Daniele del Friuli, it’s a good four-hour drive if we intend to take it in one piece and if there are no delays on the way or at the border. Not close, I’d say. There are so many hours of driving to Venice, so I asked myself the question of the trip’s profitability. But as I connected more destinations to explore on my trip around the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, I had a quick answer. At the same time, there is an unusual experience.
We can easily choose from the three routes that we will take via MICHELIN , which also calculates the cost of the trip. Looking at the Google Maps map fooled me because I always misjudge how big a place is to explore.
When I arrived at the entrance to the town of San Daniele, I realized that the town is not as small as it seemed, even though it only has about ten thousand inhabitants. I did not find parking in the center of town because the streets are narrow and there is almost no parking. Only at the very top of the hill and some distance from the center, found a free parking lot.
I was convinced that I would come to a small hilly and picturesque place like Motovun, but it turned out not to be like that. It is a busy and modern business tourist town on top of a small hill, which is enhanced by the old town center with lots of surrounding greenery. Despite the surprise, the place exudes that similar to our Istrian or Dalmatian flair, but everything is more dynamic and modern. Narrow stone alleys, laundry drying above our heads, loud hosts calling out on the street and through the windows, carts clattering through the alleys and much more, it reminds of Istria or Dalmatia, but everything is very different outside the center. Small manufactories, prosciutto bars, retail chains, hangars indicate the developed economy of the place.
I imagine what it would be like to live here. You can feel the fresh air coming from the Alps blowing mixed with the scents of the trees. The view of the greenery, towards the mountains and the old town, mixed with these scents gives a sense of calmness and the desire to feel at home here.
Although I was sure that the town was known exclusively for its prosciutto and that was the main story, I was wrong. The hosts are proud of their prosciutto, but it’s not like they’re making a big deal out of it now. No more that, and that’s what happened, don’t bother me with that. My ears would also be dripping if every visitor asked me: “Where do you eat prosciutto and tell me something about it”. And prosciutto has been talked about here since the Celts, through Napoleon and until today. I believe that some are already traumatized by the tourists, eager for prosciutto with a hundred questions.
An important gourmet story here is smoked trout, and then prosciutto. Fresh wild trout, as well as farms, are located on the Taglaimento River, which does not pass through the town but is a few kilometers away from the center. They often say that smoked trout is a gourmet experience equal to prosciutto, if not better. The hosts like to boast that the town is the pearl of the krajina, as well as the most beautiful. I would agree with that. The magnificent river Tagliamento, as they like to call it, played a central role in the town and not only in the history of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, but also in its culture, lifestyles and language. It is a river that never ceases to surprise and delight with its wide bed, lush vegetation, great bends and charming natural beaches in the summer (like those in Cimano di San Daniele ). As well as facilities for horseback riding and canoeing. Since it was summer, I was looking forward to bathing in the river. The original thought that I was coming to a village where I would spend an hour, try some prosciutto, take five steps up, ten down and keep going, disintegrated. I realized that I would have to stay the night here if I wanted to visit and try everything in peace. It is interesting that the town lives in both summer and winter. In summer because of the river bathing area, and in winter because of the nearby ski resort. It’s always crowded here and sometimes you need to arm yourself with patience, especially to wait for a free table in the restaurant.
The center is dominated by the cathedral – Duomo di San Daniele del Friuli and the square in front. At the end of June, there is a big four-day prosciutto festival called “Aria di Festa”, which unfortunately has already passed, although I had intended to visit it. But when I saw on the net how crowded it was and how expensive accommodation and all other offers were, I gave up.
Among the sights, there is the most famous historical library in Italy, the Biblioteca Guarneriana and a few more, but you come here mainly to eat prosciutto and smoked trout, try local wine and enjoy exploring the surroundings. They call it “Slow Tourism”. The surroundings are rich in picturesque villages such as Fagagna and Tarcento and along the river Ragogna. It’s good to rent a bike and get around because it’s all within a radius of ten kilometers.
Several smaller prosciutto bars are located in the center, so there is no need to explore the surroundings too much. Big prosciutto houses are located at the entrance to the city and look like big hangars and not very attractive. Prosciutto can be tried in every restaurant.
